If you are looking for skincare products that treat acne and hyperpigmentation, you have likely heard of niacinamide. It is a gentle ingredient found in products such as serums.
Generally, niacinamide is well tolerated by most skin types; however, you may wonder whether it can cause “purging.” “Purging” is another term for acne breakouts, although there are some key differences.
While some people report irritation and breakouts after using niacinamide, it is unlikely to cause purging. This is because it does not affect the skin in the way that typically triggers this phenomenon.
Read on to learn more about niacinamide, purging, and potential reasons why your skin might be reacting to this ingredient.
What Is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is additional name for vitamin B3. It is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient found in both topical skincare products and oral supplements.
Regarding skin health, niacinamide is used to:
- reduce inflammation and redness
- reduce sebum (oil) production
- improve hydration
- strengthen the skin’s barrier function (its protective capacity)
- reduce atypical pigmentation (colour)
As a result, niacinamide can be used to treat skin conditions such as:
- acne
- rosacea
- autoimmune skin situations
- hyperpigmentation
- atopic dermatitis
A dermatologist may recommend niacinamide in a compounded cream (custom-formulated), but it is also available in over-the-counter formulations.
Can niacinamide cause a purging effect?
In skincare, purging occurs when an active ingredient accelerates the rate of skin cell turnover. This allows new skin cells to emerge, revealing healthier skin.
However, this process also forces the expulsion of comedones. Comedowns are follicles clogged with dirt and oil; they typically manifest as blackheads or whiteheads.
This can lead to a temporary increase in pustules—a type of acne characterised by pus-filled bumps. According to a 2015 academic review, this is a potential side effect of retinoid-containing products.
Purging vs. Breakouts
Purging is similar to a representative breakout, but it differs in several respects. These are the main differences between the two:
- These breakouts appear in the areas where you typically experience them and last for only a brief period of time.
- This occurs when your skin reacts harmfully to a substance. It affects areas where you do not usually experience breakouts, and these persist for a longer duration.
As previously mentioned, niacinamide reduces sebum production and improves skin hydration.
However, it does not accelerate skin cell turnover. And since the “purging” effect (or initial breakout) occurs precisely due to cell turnover, it is unlikely that this phenomenon is involved in a reaction to niacinamide.
In fact, a 2016 review found that niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties may reduce pustules—a characteristic feature of purging. Likewise, its sebum-regulating effects could decrease the appearance of comedones.
Generally speaking, there is little research documenting negative reactions to topical niacinamide. This ingredient is typically well-tolerated and not associated with adverse effects when used at standard concentrations.
Some people report experiencing irritation, dryness, and redness when using high concentrations of niacinamide (around 10%). Opting for a lower concentration (around 4% or 5%) may prove less harsh on the skin.
If you suspect you are experiencing a niacinamide-induced purge, the reaction may actually be due to another ingredient in the product you are using. For example, some products combine niacinamide with retinol, and retinol can, in fact, trigger a purging effect.
What should I do if niacinamide causes a purging effect?
While niacinamide does not necessarily cause a purging effect, in some people, it may trigger irritation or acne breakouts.
If this happens, here is what you can do:
- Check the other ingredients in your product. If it contains comedogenic ingredients—such as oleic acid or butyl stearate—consider switching to a non-comedogenic product.
- If the product contains an active ingredient, such as retinol, the purging effect is likely due to that specific ingredient. This means the ingredient is doing its job, so you should continue using the product.
- If you experience purging or a breakout, avoid picking or exfoliating the pimples. Doing so can lead to increased inflammation.
- Avoid poignant or picking at your acne and irritated areas. Try to keep your hands off your face.
- Avoid introducing new products or ingredients until the irritation has subsided.
Sometimes, it can be problematic to pinpoint exactly which ingredient is causing your symptoms. In such cases, consider consulting a dermatologist.
Let them know exactly which product you are using so they can review the ingredient list. From there, the dermatologist can inspect your skin and determine what might be irritating.
When to Seek Dermatological Care
If you experience symptoms of a skin condition or a severe reaction to niacinamide, consult a dermatologist. Seek immediate medical attention if you experience:
- severe pain
- severe redness or swelling
- bleeding
- signs of a skin infection, such as pus
- a generalised skin rash
- itching that persists despite medical treatment
In Conclusion
If you experience a reaction after using niacinamide, it is unlikely to be purging.
This is because purging occurs when an ingredient accelerates skin cell turnover, and niacinamide does not produce this effect on skin cells. The rejoinder is likely due to another ingredient present in the product.
However, high concentrations of niacinamide can irritate. If this happens, try using a lower-potency product.
If you experience a severe reaction to niacinamide or any other skincare ingredient, consult a dermatologist regarding your symptoms.
You should also seek medical attention if you develop a widespread rash, signs of infection, or persistent irritation.